Reports - winter conditions and activity

Tuesday, January 22, 2013

Beinn Udlaidh 22-01-13

Lots of good ice forming on Beinn Udlaidh.  Various routes in condition and others coming in.  Few others out today on Quartzvein Scoop and Green Eyes.  There was a reasonable amount of fresh powder blown about and some of the exits on the main crag had a bit of build up and a small cornice, not too much of a problem though.

Today we were looking to climb another 'Cold Climbs' route and so headed to Quartzvein Scoop IV / 4***. There was a fair bit of snow covering the ice but underneath there was some good ice, a little hollow in places but all good.  After this we dropped down to the single pitch routes on the lower tier and climbed a short steep route down there which gave a great little pitch and a bit steeper than what we have been on the last few days.

Its always great to climb the classic winter climbs of the UK and 'Cold Climbs' gives some great background info and history associated with a selection of routes and in looking to climb many of the listed routes you'll be taken off the beaten track.

'Cold Climbs' -   http://www.bmcshop.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=5427


Lower Tier Ice-falls



Quartzvein Scoop IV / 4***

 Main Crag



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4 comments:

  1. Unknown24 January 2013 at 10:41

    Looks awesome. Do you know the current conditions of this crag? Wonna climb this weekend. The weather forecast with plus temperatures brings me into unknown zone. Any suggestions?

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    Replies
    1. Paddy Cave (MIC)24 January 2013 at 22:55

      Hey,

      I think I'd probably head higher with the forecast, probably up on the Ben would be best.

      Watch out for cornices though if it does warm up loads...

      Cheers, Paddy

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    2. Scott Peterson25 January 2013 at 18:08

      Hi Paddy,

      This is Scott, climbing partner of Alex (above). Thanks for your update yesterday; looks like there has been some great ice recently. We were wondering if you had seen any changes in the forecast for up there. We are hoping to be on ice Monday and Tuesday, but it seems there is a pretty broad warming taking place that might really increase the dangers...

      Cheers, Scott

      Delete
  2. Paddy Cave (MIC)28 January 2013 at 15:00

    Hi Scott,

    Sorry, I have been over on the East so not sure exactly about Beinn Udlaidh. I'd expect there was ice holding up OK but wouldn't be sure what it was like without being up. Current UKC thread on the subject...

    Hope you find something good anyway,

    Paddy

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